A Squared Away Uniform

Drill Instructors, above all other staff, must represent the definition of uniform perfection at all times. That being said, it can be very difficult to get that "look" down. This can be especially hard if a staff member does not have experience in a field where a uniform must be perfect. (Note: just because someone was a police officer or in the armed forces it does necessarily mean they know, or remember, how to square away a uniform) This post will reveal some of the most common tricks of the trade that can be applied to Pathfinder Uniforms. It takes time to get good at all of it but it is worth the effort.

Ironing is Your Friend:
Never underestimate the impact of freshly ironed clothes. The most effective (and often overlooked) trick for having a good looking uniform is to iron it every time you intend to wear it.

Learn proper ironing technique
These are not the skills you learned in home economics. These are above and beyond. You may know how to iron a collared, button up shirt... but ironing a dress uniform shirt is a different beast. Be patient at first, it will take many attempts to learn how to iron a straight crease but it will be worth it. Don't be discouraged if you have to redo something 3,4, even 5 times.
Shirt:
Learn how to iron military creases. It takes some practice but will get much easier with time. Or you can buy a dress shirt that has permanent military creases. Tailors can also sew military creases into shirts. Put a little extra work into your sleeves. Make that outside crease sharp and straight. Put a bit of a fold on the patches on your sleeve. It will be difficult but get a little in there.
Pants:
Take your time. Pants may seem simple but need to look good too. To get your proper creases, hold the end of the pant leg and align the cuffs then start from the bottom and work your way up. Laying both legs on top of each other to check consistency. You have two legs and they need to be identical. The front seam should end about 6 inches below the waist. The rear crease should end no higher than the crotch of the pants.
Accessories:
Don't forget your other accessories! The scarf is the big one here but don't forget to occasionally press your tie, gloves, and undershirt. Even socks if yours wrinkle after being washed.

Starch:
Get some high strength starch and learn how to use it! Starch will help keep your uniform looking good in between wear and even help prevent things from looking off while you are wearing it. Starch your shirt, pants, scarf, and tie. Put heavier starch on the lower portion of your trousers to keep that cuff looking crisp. Make sure you starch your shirt on the large portions of fabric that will lay flat. Use some starch on the arms to keep that crease sharp and to help keep the fold in your badges there. Don't go overboard.
The scarf should be starched so that the bottom point lays flat and it will greatly help with your wearing technique.

Shirt Garter:
There are some nifty little devices that help you always keep the tucked in look. It's great to put on trousers and your waist looks perfect but it's gone the instant you sit or bend, or even move for that matter. Shirt straps, shirt garters, or shirt stays are essentially reverse suspenders for your shirt. they attach to the bottom of your shirt and then either around your foot or to the top of your socks. They are made of elastic and when tightened properly, will give a good tug to keep your shirt looking perfectly tucked in at all times no matter how much movement you do. A little hike and shift  in the waist of your trousers and your shirt will look great again.
There are also rubber belts designed to be worn around the shirt and just under the waist of the pants. They also are deigned to keep a shirt tucked and trousers in place. They are great for primarily standing or walking and go on much easier with the help of a partner but are not effective for any other motion.

Use a Tailor:
Past ironing, a good tailor can make all the difference. Get your trousers and shirt tailored, and tell them it needs to be a military tailor and not a dress tailor. A military tailor will be just a little tighter on the shirt. Have them take any extra fabric out of the sleeves so they are not baggy. You want pants to ride just above the hipbone and when wearing shoes, you want a slight break in the bottom of the trousers. Always take your shoes when getting fitted. Have the tailor angle the trouser bottoms as well.

Buying Parts of the Uniform:
Pants: You probably got your dress shirt from AdvenSource but where to get the rest? True, you can buy pants from AdventSource but you will get a much better fit if you buy them elsewhere. Go to a store that has a good selection of dress pants for comparison. Take your shoes and try them on. Make sure that you actually get black and not something too light. Believe it or not there are about as many shades of black as there are colors in the rainbow and it can be next to impossible to tell the difference if they are not side by side. Trousers should fit well but don't have to be perfect.... you have a tailor for that remember? The most important thing is that the waist is not too snug and that the pant legs fit well with not too much extra fabric around the thighs. Your trousers should have a slimming look from the waist down. Never, ever, not in a million years, should you buy pleated pants! They may be great for certain suits and 1930's gangsters but they are an abomination with regard to uniforms.
Socks: Get a nice pair of dark black socks (not dark navy as is often the embarrassing case). Don't buy really thin or short ones either. The extra padding of a thicker sock will help cushion your feet and be more durable.
Shoes: You have quite a bit of leeway in this department. Until AdventSource decides to stock Corframs, you gotta buy shoes elsewhere. Three rules: They must be black, the must be lace up, and they must be shine-able (Ladies, you can wear other shoes as authorized by your club but the heel should not be larger than 2 inches). Put some effort into making sure they have a nice smooth, glossy look every time you wear the uniform (this means getting shoe polish, sitting down with a soft cloth and getting to work). Just like good headgear seals the deal at the top, good looking shoes seal it at the bottom.

Below are some additional tips.

• Use sewing scissors to trim off all little strings and pieces of thread that end up sticking out on your uniform.
• Hang up your uniform! Your uniform should always be in one of two places: On your body or on a hanger. When you must travel, use a garment bag, dry cleaning bag, or a garbage bag with a hole to keep your uniform protected.
• A lighter flame can be used to singe off the fuzz that can appear on patches and seams.
• A piece of chipboard cut into an oval and placed under your shirt behind you ribbons will help maintain a smooth appearance. Always check to make sure it can't be seen.
• Maintain excellent hygiene. Always "tune up" your appearance the morning of. Guys: there is no excuse for a day old beard.
• Use a permanent marker to patch up scuffs on the soles of your shoes.
• Replace items that are worn out. (ribbons or light colored pieces are frequent casualties)
• Always include a gig line trim as one of your last dressing steps.
• Dress in this order: undergarments, shirt (and button it leaving the top button undone), shirt straps or tailor belt, socks, trousers, shoes, belt, tie, sash (if putting on at that time), scarf, headgear and gloves.
• Adjust your belt buckle so that when worn, the right edge of the buckle is on your gig line and the metal tip at the other end of the belt rests under the first belt loop to the left side of the buckle. Trim any extra belt off so it does not extend farther than the back of the buckle. Keep that end neat and free of fraying. If using club belts, Pathfinders may thread extra belt past the buckle and underneath the rest of the belt in order to not have to cut every belt.
• Dress shoes don't have to be expensive to work great. Browse thrift stores to find a good deal. In my time as a Pathfinder staff, I have bought all but one pair at a thrift store.
• Make sure you get black socks and not dark navy. That is one of the first things I look for in a uniform inspection.
• Know how to tuck a tie in a crisp and military fashion. (In the shirt, not in the pants)
• Know the military tuck if your shirt does not fit perfectly.
• Use a half Windsor knot for your tie. Windsor and Pratt are also acceptable. The Four-in-hand, Simple, and Balthus knots should be avoided.
• Always check over your uniform for things that may need replacing. It's a good idea to have a spare belt, scarf, tie, socks, and ribbons.
• Keep your hands out of your pockets unless you are placing or retrieving something. And then, do not put anything in your pockets that will bulge.
• Always use a garment bag. Never fold your shirt or pants unless you absolutely have to. If you must fold, look into techniques on how to fold with minimal wrinkles and unwanted creases.
• Use antiperspirant instead of simple deodorant to prevent pit stains.
• For shirt pocket flaps, sew the button hole shut and sew the button onto the flap. Then attach small pieces of Velcro to the corners of the flap so that the corners stick down and don't roll up.
• Do not roll your sleeves. They make short sleeved shirts for that. If you are hot, you suck it up.
• Wear headgear properly.
• Do not add unneeded things to your uniform. 
• When wearing a jacket, wear one that is clean and looks like it belongs in a professional setting. A sweat shirt, ratty snow jacket, or blanket is not appropriate. If the jacket is on, it will be at least 3/4 zipped up. if you are too hot that way, you don't need a jacket.
• Never wear undergarments that can be seen. This applies especially to long sleeve shirts worn under short sleeve dress uniforms. Wear a jacket or suck it up. 
• Shine, or at least clean and buff, anything that has a metallic finish.
• Roll your scarf so that you have a tube that rests around your collar. Not only does it look better after the slide is on, but it helps keep the lines straight on the back of your neck.
• Apply military standards of dress and grooming whenever possible regarding hair, makeup and jewelry (but you already knew that, right?).
• Take your time dressing. Allow adequate time to get dressed so you can apply the proper attention. Putting a uniform on in a pup tent at a camporee is time consuming and takes patience but it can be done.

Have a squared away uniform even if you are camping (it can be done). Consistency is the key. Take the time to do it right and it will be noticed. No one cares if you look good after you were able to sleep in, get dressed at home and show up to a club meeting. What will stand out is that same uniform when you have it on Saturday morning at a camporee with bad weather, a six hour drive to get there, and having to get up at the crack of dawn with no indoor plumbing.

A visual of the gig line. Ignore the nasty belt flap

Simple military tuck. Look up videos for better instruction

Berets: The How To Guide

Many Pathfinders wear berets. Many Pathfinders fail miserably at wearing a beret. That's not to say that they have it all wrong, it's just not a form that (I feel) is fitting to the Pathfinder uniform. It's time we caught up. This will be a guide to getting, preparing, and wearing the black beret as part of the dress uniform.

First things first, it must be black. Not navy, red, green, purple, or any other color that happens to strike your fancy. Black is the appropriate color for the current Pathfinder uniform and it should stay that way. Not to say you can never designate other colors for things such as drill teams, drum corps, etc. (however, beware of any rules regarding what allowance is prescribed by your local conference)

So you don't have one and need to get one. Where do you go? You can buy berets from AdventSource. Their product is good but is the reason so many are worn improperly. Better sources are military uniform supply companies such as Parade Store. There is one type of beret you should get: military style, with badge stay, no pip, no lining, made of wool, and has an adjustable leather band. Anything else will probably have you looking better in a striped shirt, suspenders, face painted white and attempting to get out of a glass box.

Why so picky? All these properties have something to do with getting the look just right. Step one is preparation and forming the beret.

Preparation:

1. If the beret you happen to have has lining or a pip on top.... cut it off. You don't need them and they will cause problems down the road if you don't.
2. Inspect for flaws. If the beret happens to be owned by a club, then it's possible there could be stains, or damage that preclude it from being used. Make sure it will fit your head. (some berets are sized and others are not. The more accurate the sizing, the better the fit)
3. If it does not have a badge stay (the stiff fabric covered cardboard piece inside the beret and sewn to the rim), it's not the end of the world. You'll just have to make one.
4. Shave the beret. You heard me. Get a disposable razor and run it over the inside and outside of the beret. This will remove all the little "fluff" left over from manufacturing. Don't go crazy. Just smooth out the appearance. Start with the inside so you can get a feel for how it's done. Use sewing scissors to trim around the headband. Take you time and do it right.
5. Attach the flash (also known as the beret patch). Make sure it's the beret patch and not a uniform patch. Position it on the outside of the beret where the badge stay makes a flat spot when pressed from the inside. Sew it in place. Don't glue it! Never glue it. The wool fabric does not handle glue very well and even if you can get away with it on your uniform, it's a very bad idea for the beret. Make sure it's straight and aligned with the headband. If you don't have a badge stay, see below.
1. If you don't have a badge stay: Time to make one. Find some stiff cardboard. Corrugated cardboard will work but will wear out fast. I recommend some type of chipboard if you can find it and the thicker the better. 1/8" is ideal. If all you can find is corrugated, then take two pieces and glue them together to make a stronger piece. Cut the cardboard in almost the exact shape as the conference patch on your uniform. Then tack it in place behind your already sewn on flash with a couple of dabs of glue. Super Glue or similar works well.
2. Consider carefully wrapping it in duct tape before installing. The tape will help strengthen not only the stay itself but your attachment to the lining and help protect from sweat.

Forming:

1. Put it on your head with the headband level across the forehead and 1 in above the eyebrows. Pull the rest of the band around the head so it sit's in a horizontal line all the way around the head. If needed, it is acceptable to have a bit of a rise in back. Pull the sizing ribbon snug and tie it off. You may cut off the extra ribbon or plan on tucking it up when you wear it. The beret is sized properly and ready for forming.
2. Use warm water to thoroughly dampen the fabric. Soak it evenly but try to leave the badge stay fairly dry for now. Do not use hot water no matter how tempting it sounds given the next steps. It will shrink your beret fabric and make it unusable.
3. Stand in front of a mirror and put the beret on. It's even more helpful if you have a partner to assist. After you position the headband properly, hold the flash with the badge stay behind it straight up and down over your left eyebrow. Curl the ends of your fingers over the top of the stay to roll the fabric down behind the stay about a half inch. At the same time, with your right hand, pull the extra fabric down over your right ear. The fabric should at least reach the top of your ear and go no farther than the middle of your ear. Flatten the fold down and tug it in place to ensure all extra fabric is pulled over. The rest of the beret should be generally molded round your head. Manipulate the beret in this fashion over and over. It takes time, be patient. Re-wetting with warm water if needed. Continue until you have the proper look and the headband is still where it should be.
4. Wear the beret like that until it dries. Or at least until it is relatively dry. It can then be taken off and carefully placed on a surface with the fold hanging off and left to dry the rest of the way. You could even ball up some paper to help keep the shape. There is no substitute for drying on the head though. Periodically, ensure the look is still proper. Obviously, this is best done when the weather is warm.
5. Repeat the forming process if needed to get the right look. Each iteration of forming will correct flaws not fixed by the previous form.

Storage and Cleaning:

Always store the beret in a cool and dry place. Colors can fade if left for extended time in direct sunlight. When you are not wearing the beret, it is best to let it maintain it's shape. The most practical would be to fold the parts down so the beret is relatively flat. The beret can also be rolled and temporarily stored in a pocket or other part of the uniform. The beret may need to be reformed from time to time if it looses it's shape.

You can gently clean a beret with steam. Wipe the headband with a damp cloth and a gentle cleaner if needed. Beyond that, I recommend having berets professionally dry cleaned on a periodic basis. Trying something more than what is described above could destroy it.

Proper Wear:

As described above, the proper wear of the beret is as follows:

• Headband horizontal across the forehead and 1 in above the eyebrows.
• The patch or flash should be positioned above the left eye
• The extra fabric is pulled down the side of the head, centered on and over the right ear. Fabric should extend to at least the top of the ear and no farther than half way down the ear.
• The rest of the band should be as horizontal as possible as it sits on the head. It is acceptable for the headband to present a raise at the back of the head.
• Sizing ribbons should be trimmed or tucked up under the beret.
• Hair should not extend below the edge of the beret in the front - tuck longer hair up and away.
• The beret is not worn indoors unless outdoor rules are in effect or while serving as a member of a Color or Honor Guard. The beret is never worn in a sanctuary. 

These two photos represent the proper way a beret should look.

Headgear

Headgear is one of the more diverse accessories utilized withing Pathfinder Clubs. Even from Conference to Conference, there seems to be little standardization as to what and how to wear headgear.... or if headgear is even used at all. This is intended to be an overview of headgear utilized in Pathfindering in the North American Division and will primarily focus on the United States.

Types of Headgear:

The Beret:
The black beret is commonly the officially authorized headgear for Pathfinders. The regulations go no further than to specify a beret and that is should be black in color. No mention of type of beret, style of wear, or rules for wear.

Col. Clarke wearing the tan Army Ranger beret 

in the appropriate military fashion.

I have seen just about every variation of the beret used for a Pathfinder uniform and unfortunately, most of these accompany a dress uniform. From the crisp and well formed black beret of the military style accompanying an equally crisp and military uniform to the awkwardly colored international styles, worn in no particular manner and a uniform of similar character.

While I favor the use of the beret in Pathfinders, it must be

"French" beret worn "goofy". Often
accompanied by goofy uniforms
 and an apparent abhorrence 

to tucked shirts or ironing.

worn in a manner that reflects the spirit of Pathfindering. It should be crisp, clean, properly formed, fitted, and worn properly with the uniform. Just like US military applications, deviance from the specified black, should be reserved for distinguished groups and authorized by the local Conference.

If you are wearing berets, please keep them within the tradition of the uniform. They are not a flashy accessory but just as important a piece as the blouse itself.


The Ball Cap:
While a great addition to a hike or picnic, it has no place on a dress uniform. It would be as inappropriate as wearing white tennis shoes with the dress uniform.

Garrison Cap:
While not used by many NAD Pathfinders, it has it's heritage in the JMV clubs as the headgear of choice. The issue with garrison caps and the current NAD Dress Uniform is that colors are hard to come by. The cap would need to be either black or tan. Then the beret flash (the only insignia authorized for headgear) would not fit or attach properly. It's mostly a nostalgic piece... and a good one at that. It reminds us of our roots and the social conventions that were in place when Pathfinders started. Perhaps the NAD should look into bringing it back.

Service Cap:
Also known as a Combination Cover, Peaked Cap, Wheel Cap, Saucer Cap, or Barracks Cover; I have seen a few service caps utilized with a pathfinder uniform. Most of the time they are left over from prior military service and look appropriate with the Master Guide Uniform. Others appear to have been gotten at a Halloween clearance sale or from a defunct military government. This cap has a lot of potential but can be hard to care for properly in addition to the expense of good quality. I also include the 8-point hat in the category even though it is technically different.

Utility Cover or Patrol Cap:
This covers a range of cover, caps, or hats worn by various branches of the United States Military as part of the Battle Dress Uniform. This has spawned a set of headgear that is of the same style and usually solid in color. Pathfinder have also been seen wearing this type of headgear in uniform. A black utility cover does not look totally out of place but tops off the Pathfinder with one step down from dress uniform. My recommendation for those wanting to use this headgear would be to utilize it with a different uniform such as a specific drill team or drum corps outfit where it more appropriately matches.

Campaign Cover:
Few Pathfinders wear the campaign cover and those that do are almost certainly staff. The reason for wearing is varied. It has several uses in the United States: Forrest Service personnel wear a version of the hat and is most recognized as the hat worn by Smokey the Bear... hence the slang term "smokey bear hat" or simply "smokey". Several State Patrols use the campaign hat as their uniform hat. Then there is the use by drill instructors, drill sergeants, and training instructors in the US Military. Most often, any campaign hat of the military or state trooper style is worn in a military fashion. The Forrest Service version is generally worn in a more laissez-faire style and not appropriate for the dress uniform. Because of the authority and image the cover represents, it is the most appropriate choice for Pathfinder Drill Instructors. Both a black and green cover would be acceptable providing it matched the color of the uniform being worn.

Cowboy Hat:
Unless you are from Texas, you have no business wearing a cowboy hat anywhere near a Pathfinder Dress Uniform. Humor with a grain of truth here for sure. Plain and simple, the cowboy hat is not a uniform hat. While it may embody a person's or group's personal beliefs, it's not generally appropriate for wear in dress uniform. If you must, try to keep it to a special group such as a drum corps. And, no matter how much you may identify with cowboys, it's probably not the best choice for a club from New York. it just doesn't fit. Keep it classy.

Anything Else:
Don't.

I have seen just about everything topping off a Pathfinder in dress uniform. From the headgear worn well and tastefully to the furry neon green, Cat-in-the-Hat top-hat sold at the fair. We have a uniform for a reason, and it does a great dishonor to the spirit of the uniform to add something that is not appropriate. In the same way that clubs would not allow Pathfinders to wear their sneakers or flip flops with a dress uniform, they should not allow headgear that accomplishes the same. If you are going to wear a hat with your uniform. Please make sure that it looks appropriate. Keep it uniform (that means everyone wears the same thing). Wear it with pride.

Bearing

Something must be said for appropriate military bearing in Pathfinder drill.
Military bearing is a concept not often taught to Pathfinders but is an essential part of any team wishing to push past mediocrity. It is a essential for effective Drill Instructors.

How should we define bearing? Most of the time it has the word "military" in front of it and that may turn some people off. Don't let that happen. It's simply there because its from the military that we get our most recognizable definition of the type of bearing we want in Pathfinder drill.

Think about what you know of high profile military personnel. Have you seen a Tomb Guard at Arlington National Cemetery? Perhaps a performance of the United States Marine Corps Silent Drill Platoon. Maybe pictures of embassy guards or professional graveside service members. All of these individuals were chosen in some part because of their bearing. There are three main elements that are essential: attitude, discipline, and appearance. Put all these together in an appropriate fashion and you will have Pathfinder bearing.

Attitude
You must exude the proper attitude. This would include confidence, courtesy, and professionalism. They way you interact with others goes a long way to promoting good will; and someone who has those qualities will be respected in their field.

Discipline
Discipline comes in two parts: mental and physical. They go hand-in-hand when it comes to drill.

Physical discipline involves they way you move and the way you carry yourself. This is the quality that people will see from across the room and know who you are that you are in charge. It means always walking with a confident step. A step taken as if you know exactly where you are going, how to get there, and what's going to happen when you arrive. It means that the shoulders are back, your are standing straight and tall, your head is up, and you are always aware of your surroundings ( It sounds like I've just described the look of a nervous prairie dog, but I assure you, you wont look like Timon). This is a quality of all successful people and instructing drill is no different. Avoid slouched postures that close yourself off. This doesn't mean you have to march everywhere you go and sit at attention for every meal, but let that posture and discipline training come out and be noticed.

Mental discipline comes from those hours spent on the drill field practicing, drilling, and perfecting all those movements, positions, and commands. It's the thing that allows you to stand at attention for longer than usual. And it's the quality that allows you to discuss subjects with grace. The exact quality will be a little different for every Pathfinder and Instructor but in order to perfect the physical discipline, you must have that mental component to match.

Appearance
Among the most visual parts of military bearing is ones outward appearance. Essentially this is the clothes he/she is wearing and how they are worn. I don't have to mention the importance of having a perfectly squared away uniform that is above an beyond anything you would expect of your Pathfinders. You will use those "tricks of the trade" to make this happen. Beyond the dress uniform, one should always strive to have appropriate, neat, and professional attire given the circumstances. Your clothing should be clean, well fitted, and free of wrinkles. Noting too difficult here. Footwear should be appropriate. Bear in mind that sandals or flip flops are never appropriate drill attire. Shorts should be reserved for days above 80 degrees or when engaged in activities such and hiking. Leave the bedazzled sunglasses, the wristbands, and neon colored belts at home and opt for a more conservative alternative. Oh, and wear a wristwatch.... your phone is not an appropriate time keeping device.

Bearing takes practice and conscious effort to develop. Done well, it can add a whole new level to your instruction. If you teach it to your Pathfinders, their ability to drill will increase and they will look much better.

Cite Your Sources

As an instructor who has had the privilege of doing work in many different places and with many different people and coupled with more than a decade of experience, I have come across all kinds of rules that I have never heard of before. I always ask the same question and get the same answer: "Where did you come up with that?" And I get the same response: "It's what I was taught", or "It's just common knowledge." Wrong! You don't have to live very long to realize that a lot of people believe things that are downright false. Why should the world of drill be any different?

Because Pathfinder drill has a history that has been contributed to by a vast number of individuals with every color of experience, training, and background; it is reasonable to assume that some inaccurate information slips in. However, in this digital age where so much information is at our fingertips wherever we may be, there is no excuse for perpetuating inaccurate information.

As Drill Instructors, you have a responsibility to continually purify Pathfinder drill. Weeding out all the little inaccuracies, false beliefs, and poor technique. And this includes dumping any rule that you cannot verify through appropriate sources. Appropriate sources are never Pathfinder published. They are often published by the government (in the form of the United States Flag Code), or manuals published by various branches of the Armed Forces (ie. Army Drill and Ceremonies Manual) or professional drill organizations (Think New Guard America). Plain and simple: never teach anything as a hard and fast rule that you cannot find in these resources. That's not to say you should never adapt or create rules for special circumstances.

Let me use and example: Flag Position in an Auditorium. A simple task for sure. But there is always someone who will make their beliefs known to all if the flags are set up in a way that is inconsistent with what he/she believes. Let the bickering commence. No one can say where they got their ideas from but everyone is positive they are correct and sometimes even invent sources (such as the flag code). Believe it or not, these kind of quarrels have causes rifts in Pathfinder organizations. Don't be that guy.

Arm yourself with the resources available to you. Challenge everything you have been taught. Understand that it may not always be correct. And don't cling to incorrect ideas when you discover you are in error. You will destroy your reputation as an instructor. Cite your source and have the professional ethic to admit when you may be wrong.

Your Toolbox

As leaders, Drill Instructors are asked to perform many tasks as part of a Pathfinder program. This may be in the form of other offices: counselors, instructors, etc. Whatever the role, there is always a goal... a "why" to your Pathfinder program. That why will change from club to club and conference to conference. But a general purpose is common to all Pathfinder programs: Lead young people to Christ, Provide an environment where useful and enjoyable skills can be learned, and do all this in a positive way. Take away any of these three elements and Pathfinders ceases to be Pathfinders.

So how do staff and instructors accomplish these goals? Just like you accomplish anything: You gather the tools you need, ready the needed materials, then get put in some elbow greases and get sweaty. You have a set of tools that have been given throughout your Pathfinder career. These are things like instructional methods, knowledge about child psychology, safety protocols, experience, Sabbath school lessons, etc. These are things that are offered at training events, skills you have developed outside of Pathfinders, and stuff simply learned through experience. These things are what you will use to accomplish the goals. The materials are your Pathfinders, your staff, nature, and even physical materials like wax, construction paper, or wood. Then there is the element unique to you: the effort and time you put into your club. All of these things come together to create a good Pathfinder program and accomplish your goals.

What does all this have to do with drill? Drill is one of many tools you should have in your toolbox. It is nothing more and nothing less. Just like actual tools, if you use them inappropriately you risk destroying what you are working with. In this case it's the staff and Pathfinders you have to worry about. Inappropriately applied drill can cause irreversible damage to Pathfinders. Never forget that the well being of your Pathfinders is your highest priority. Audit your drill program from time to time to make sure you are doing it right. Then take immediate action on anything you find that is not working. Even if that means shutting your program down all together.

Don't be one of those leaders stuck in the mud of the past. Just because that's the way you leaned it, doesn't give you the right to harm Pathfinders. Believe people when they tell you that something you are doing is not effective or correct. You will alienate yourself as a staff and instructor, you will loose all credibility with your Pathfinders, and you will find yourself alone in the club. That does not allow you to be effective at reaching those overall goals.

Drill is a tool. Use it properly and it can be highly beneficial. Use it inappropriately, and you will destroy all the things you are working towards. Like actual tools, not all tools have to be used in a particular job.... even if that is the only tool you know how to use.

Back to Basics

Pathfinders and instructors must always get back to the basics every once in a while. And younger Pathfinders even more often. It is foolish to think that just because you were good at marching once and have since moved on to complex triple time, double to-the-real march, swash salutes that you are exempt from the basics. Professionals who know the value of basic skills will ensure they are always proficient. A brain surgeon who can no longer remember how to suture properly is a bad surgeon.

So what am I talking about here? What are the basics of drill? It's quite simple: Everything you teach to a junior Pathfinder in their first year. That's the position of attention, the marching step, facing movements, salutes, etc. Instructors need to always be practicing these skills because, as we progress in our careers, we are required to perform them less and less until the day comes when we try to march on formation and we are incompetent fools. Take time to perfect the basics. Use that practice to be better at instructing those skills, review the manuals on each movement to further enforce the proper methods and terminology.

Want to know the best way to test yourself? Participate in a game of Simon Says with your junior Pathfinders and your Teen Pathfinders. Give instruction to the Teen or TLT calling commands to stick to basic commands. See how far you get. If you cannot consistently remain in the top three participants, you need to go to the deck and spend some time mastering those skills again.

Never forget the danger of becoming an armchair drill instructor. They are a destructive element. Armchair instructors who have "seen and done it all" so many times that they do not feel the need to get back on the deck are the weight around the neck of a Pathfinder Drill Program. They will be the death of a good program by criticizing things they haven't done in years. They will sit and critique based on personal biases and in the realm of new things that they have never experienced. Nowhere in the professional world are experts allowed to judge, critique, offer opinions, or instruct on topics they are not demonstrated experts themselves. To be in such a position is unethical. Don't be that guy.

Remember your roots. Remember how it felt the first time you learned the position of attention. Remember the first time you called a command as a commander. Remember the time you taught your first movement. Get back to basics.

The Well-rounded DI

Every individual that teaches drill to Pathfinders should take pride in being a well-rounded instructor. That is to say they should have a knowledge and background that is diverse and thorough. This is the key to being a good instructor, a good advanced or fancy drill team coach, and a good administrator for drill related responsibilities.

What does it mean to be well rounded? It means having a wide range of knowledge. The best instructors not only know the drill that they teach, but the drill others teach. More importantly, they know why they teach the way they do and why others teach the way they do. Drill can have many applications and a good instructor must understand them all in order to be most effective. Let's go through a few examples:

1. For teaching the youngest Pathfinders, a good instructor knows that the hard core, Marine DI, methods will not be effective. He or she will end up with a group of crying children who never want anything to do with drill again. Instead, the instructor focuses on easy movements that can be mastered quickly to instill a sense of accomplishment. Instructors will draw upon their knowledge of teaching and leadership to bring the group together and instill pride, esprit de corps, and teamwork. Most of all, those young Pathfinders will come away with a feeling of accomplishment.

2. The older Pathfinders may tend to appreciate a higher standard. Being called out when executing a movement incorrectly. These Pathfinders can handle more advanced and abstract concepts that require thinking on their feet and challenge their mental gymnastics. They relate to a leader who can sympathize with the place they are at in life but can represent a goal to strive towards. Instructors at this level call upon their knowledge of body mechanics, physics, and technical details to give challenges to Pathfinders who have mastered the basics. These Pathfinders may also enjoy the history of drill or explanations of why movements are done the way they are done or called the way they are done. Teens will want to know more of what they will get out of drill than the younger Pathfinders. A good instructor must be ready for questions they will find hard to answer and be willing to say "I don't know". Nothing ruins a leader's image faster than the inability to admit when they are wrong. That being said, a Drill Instructor must strive to be wrong as few times as possible.

3. Advanced or Fancy Drill teams will benefit from a coach that has a diverse knowledge base to draw from to create appealing, and challenging routines. This is where knowledge of competitive drill can be very useful. An Instructor will know where attention should be paid and where things can be more relaxed. They will know how to deal with the nerves associated with competition. They will know how to make uniforms look their best with the tips and "tricks" used by competitive drillers that will make their team stand apart. Knowledge of international drill can be very useful to draw upon for creating new movements and routines that have never been seen before. You can only see so many variations of "To the four winds" before it gets old. Instructors must be guiding figures in this role. They must teach, inspire, and sometimes help carry the team when needed.

4. Special Teams cover instructing responsibilities such as color or honor guards. Instructors will be called upon frequently to advise and train Pathfinders on the proper techniques and movements. Here instructors will benefit from a wide knowledge of material covered in various manuals and publications. Instructors will have to focus on the guiding principles of drill and the basics of patriotism and personal responsibility in order to remain respected in their position. They will be confident in their instruction and not instill a resentment of drill for those they train. Often, the instructor will teach Pathfinders that are not in their club and therefor do not have a rapport. Instructors must let their reputation precede them (if they have one...good or bad) and draw from that to adapt into the teacher that works best. Depending on the situation, you could end up being the terrifying, big, scary guy (who you are pretty sure would rip your head off if given a reason); to the cool guy who's laid back and cracks jokes.

5. Administrative tasks are best accomplished by a leader who is confident in their field. Well-rounded instructors will be able to recall a long list of different ways to do things and be able to pick the variation that best suits the situation. This is where the interaction is mostly with adults and the leadership is different than with teens, TLTs, or Junior Pathfinders. This is, unfortunately, where instructors can make the most enemies by not doing it the "right" way and not listening to the verbal assaults of a rambling idiot and armchair expert on everything. It's a part of the job. You take the good with the bad and learn from every encounter.

A well-rounded instructor will be capable of all the tasks described above. An Instructor who is not may do well at one task but will fail at the others and will tend to leave a sour taste with those they interact with on that level. The damage can be as benign as simply being regarded as a poor instructor or as terrible as creating a loathing of drill in a Pathfinder's mind. Strive to be well rounded and learn beyond your specialty.

Lean Back and Set 'em Down

Lean back and set 'em down

March from the waist down

40 inches back to chest

Take a 30 inch step

That's how the cadence goes and each instructor has a little different take on the rhythm and tune. It's an easy reminder of some often overlooked details of marching. It's focuses on fours distinct areas of importance: How the foot contacts the ground when a step is taken forward, role of the upper body in marching, distance and alignment, and length of step.

Lean back and set 'em down is a reminder of a concept not often taught withing Pathfinder drill. This is the specific way a foot should contact the ground when taking that marching step forward. Now, the words don't really say anything about the feet but it is a reference to the way the footfall should be taught. When first being instructed on the proper footfall patterns, Pathfinders will be told to take slow steps and lean back slightly from the waist. This helps the Pathfinder develop the best muscle memory for farther down the road. Specifically, that the heel should be the first thing to contact the ground as a Pathfinder takes a step forward. Leaning back helps subtly move the center of gravity back and helps prevent a flat foot fall that is associated with a center of gravity too far forward. The lean also helps the Pathfinder have a straight leg when the foot hits the ground.

March from the waist down is the idea that all the mechanics of marching should happen below the waist. The arms move but that only helps in creating a smooth movement and maintains the center of gravity. Otherwise, movement should be confined to the lower extremities. It extends the basic concepts going back to facing movements where Pathfinders are taught to initiate the turn from the ground up and not from the shoulders. There should be no twisting of the body through turns both at the halt and marching. Commonly, Pathfinders get sloppy and develop (for various reasons) turns initiated from the shoulders and that throws the feet off from properly executing the turn. The difference is slight and would only be noticed by seasoned instructors but it appears sloppy on large formations even to the casual observer.

40 inches back to chest is a reminder for Pathfinders to always be aware of spacing. Since drill manuals like their rules and specific directions, the proper distance from the pack of one person in a formation and the chest of the person standing behind them is exactly 40 inches. And believe me when I say the measuring tape does come out for that. Pathfinders have a more relaxed interpretation of the spacing concept which (because of the large size differences in Pathfinders) can be said as "average arm length, plus change". Each unit or club will have a slightly different spacing but for the most part it will be uniform with the arm length rule as long as Pathfinders are evenly distributed. The idea of putting all sizes together may sound good in principle and may aid to advanced drill routines but causes mis-alignment in club and unit drill.

The last line take a 30 inch step is pretty clear. The United States Army specifies a 30 inch step be taken measured from heel to heel as a soldier marches forward. Pathfinders have adopted a 24 inch step to help younger pathfinders with shorter legs to march comfortably. This line simply reminds of the need to be thinking about the size of your steps and not give in to the tendency to shorten them.

History of Drill: A Pathfinder Perspective

Drill is a military discipline. There is no other way around it. It's original purpose was to allow one army to kill more people than the other guys. As morbid as it sounds, we must recognize the origins of these skills in order to properly adapt them to the present-day use in the Pathfinder Organization.

Drill in it's earliest stages of evolution dates back almost to the dawn of war itself. Fighting was conducted melee style with each combatant rushing into a fray as part of a group. It was each man for himself. Very quickly, armies needed ways to control troop movement and military drill was born and evolved though history till the Greeks started improving on the theory.

The Greek invented what we know as drill in it's modern sense of a group of soldiers moving and maneuvering as one in order to more effective in the battlefield. Greek and (more famously) the Spartans had training programs designed to prepare their soldiers for the complex unit formations needed to be the most effective. It was still simple compared to it's height of domination in antiquity but the concept was there and would continue to be refined upon by the Greek successors, the Romans.

Roman drill was one of many reasons the Roman Empire conquered most of the known world at the time. Romans developed a standard set of commands that could be learned across the army and the formations were simplified (Greek formations could be quite complex and require special skills). Troops were trained in these commands, issued standard gear, and practiced thoroughly. This gave Roman armies a distinct advantage on the battlefield because whomever could maneuver the best and the quickest usually won.

The advent of firearms changed drill but the single shot muskets still needed the precision of close order formations to be effective. Countries developed their own distinct styles of drill as it was still and effective battle field tool. In the days of musket battles, whomever could maneuver to a flanking position would often win that skirmish or battle.

Fast forward to the United States Revolutionary War. The US forces were suffering defeats in the war up to this point. The encampment at Valley Forge during the winter of 1777-1778 was a historic event for drill in the United States. Up to that point, the Contenential Army consisted of various militias and colonial armies. They were poorly trained and had inadequate supplies. A former Prussian Officer named Baron Friedrich von Steuben was introduced to General Washington by means of Benjamin Franklin. Von Steuben eventually went to Valley Forge and General Washington allowed him to begin a training program. Von Steuben began training a model company in the military disciplines of the Prussian army. Soon, the model company was efficient at loading and firing their muskets in an orderly manner and could also maneuver at the verbal commands. Impressed with the dramatic transformation, Washington ordered the techniques be taught to the army and the model company became instructors to other groups.

Now it is easy to see why United States Drill and Ceremony bear little resemblance to British Drill despite the intense British influence on the colonies and developing nation.

As weaponry advanced and battlefield maneuvering became less and less required, drill was less and less employed. The trench warfare of WWI essentially eliminated battlefield drill. Drill was continued as a training aid and for it's use in pageantry. Every so often a small change was made to bring us to the current drill used by the different branches of the United States military.

Drill came into the Pathfinder clubs through the attitudes of the time. It was quickly seen as a way to develop aspects that staff wanted to foster in the Pathfinders such as discipline, organizational, moral, etc.